Last weekend we harvested some carrots from our allotment. We got more carrot tops (330g) than carrot roots (160g) and it seemed a shame to put the tops straight in the compost so I experimented with some dyeing. After a quick search on Ravelry I found rough instructions on a blog post. I boiled the carrot tops til they started to face, then chopped them up in my blender to make a thick fibrous soup. I let the mix simmer for a while longer then strained the mixture through a sieve. While this was going on I skeined then soaked 100g of blue faced leicester 4ply and 100g superwash merino with 20g of mordant, which at the time I thought was similar to Alum.
Here's the carrot top soup with the soaked yarn.
I simmered the yarn for about 30min until the yarn looked the colour of the soup. I let it cool then rinsed it. Loads of the colour bled out resulting in a yellow superwash yarn which looks a little warmer and brighter than in the photo below and a very pale yellow BFL. It turns out the mordant I had grabbed in haste is not similar to Alum but is used to fix plant fibres. I did rinse the yarn a lot but am dubious as to how colour fast it will be. I will try this again as I've seen some brilliant results on Ravelry and I've learnt my lesson on reading labels.
Day 2 was jam packed. We were up at the crack of dawn to visit Saqqara, the oldest stone monument/building on the planet, built around 5,000 years ago. As well as seeing the step pyramid we went inside a Mastaba and inside a tomb, both of which had fantastic carvings. The mastaba had scenes of fishing and hunting life and our guide really brought ancient Egyptian lifestyles to life.
New things are being found all the time at Saqqara and I expected to see Indiana Jones rummaging around the many archaeological digs.
After Saqqara we drove back into Cairo and vistited two mosques. The first mosque, the Mosque of Sultan Hassan, was beautiful, with it's bare walls and open central courtyard.
As our guide explained the prinicples of Islam and the history of the mosque I watched these three woman making their lunch time prayer. After they had finished they spent time chatting and were very friendly, waving and smiling at us. Our guide offered to translate for me but I couldn't think of anything to ask them.
I like Islamic script when used as artwork and admired this carved Qur'anic text running high along the wall.
It is a very tranquil place.
The second mosque, the Mosque of Al Rif'i, had much busier decor though the brilliant shaft of light penetrating the dark interior could be construed as something divine or the brilliance of the natural world.
After another lunch of falefel eaten on the bus we had a brief visit to Coptic Cairo. We went to the Hanging Church, so called as it is buit on the foundations of a Roman temple. The church was busy as it was Easter Monday, with tourists and worshipers sharing the space inside.
The courtyard was lovely, with kids running around and modern mosaics depicting biblical scenes.
We went straight from Coptic Cairo to the airport for our flight to Luxor to begin our Nile cruise.
It was great to finally relax after a day of 5000 year old temples, mosques and Christian churches and take in the classic view of the Nile with a cold beer.
This was the first time I'd been on an organised tour. While it took me a few days to adjust to being on an itinerary rather than making things up as I go along I had a fantastic time and highly recommend Explore, the tour company we used. We had an excellent guide throughout our trip, as well as several good local guides to take us around the various temples and tombs. Big thank you to Wael Wanas our indefatigable guide. If you want to know more our tour details are here. Egypt is a fantastic country, both the people and the history are great and it deserves all the support it can get on the dawn of what will hopefully be a bright future.
We arrived in Egypt on Easter Saturday evening and went for a wander, trying to find Tahrir Square, the focal point of revolutionary activity in the recent Spring Uprising. We failed to find Tahrir Square as we didn't use our map, not wanting to look like tourists (durr) but the atmosphere was great. We were out at around 11pm and it seemed all of Cairo was out enjoying the evening. All the shops were open, as well as street vendors and food stalls. As we mooched around lots of people said "hello" and "welcome to Egypt" to us. Families were out with kids of all ages, groups of men sat outside coffee shops smoking their sweet smelling sheesha pipes, people queued up outside bakeries waiting to sample sugary baklava and other local delicacies. We didn't stay out long as we had an early start the next day but it was a lovely welcome to Cairo.
The next morning we set of for Giza, a suburb of Cairo to see the Pyramids. It may come as a surprise that town of Giza extends all the way to the pyramids so you get the contrast of modern city against a backdrop of 4,000 year old monuments.
I've put some of my photos of the pyramids on Flickr so I won't bore you with them all here. As well as being astounded by the pyramids and the excitement of being able to go inside them, I also admired the textiles sported by the camels, luring tourists on to their backs.
Of course, I had my knitting with me...
... and realised my Bothered Owl project bag has a mummy on it...
... if only I'd had some spare loo roll with me to recreate Karloff's sterling performance.
After the pyramids and a sphynix we went to a Papyrus shop to see how papyrus is made. It was interesting and seemed more straightforward than wood pulp paper.
We ate our lunch of falafel on the bus on the way to the Egyptian Museum. Cameras are not allowed in the museum so I can't show you the woven garments found in Tutankhamen's tomb. (It seems there is an official website for the museum but it is down at the moment, maybe a little post-revolution upgrade is going on? http://www.egyptianmuseum.gov.eg) I did ask if any spindles or weaving tools were on display but apparently they are in storage at the moment. The museum is awesome (and I don't use that word lightly). It was pretty empty due to the lack of tourists in Egypt at the mo so we were very lucky and had Tutankhamen's treasure room to ourselves. There is so much to see. I found myself idly wandering past the magnificent and famous gold headdress thinking "oh yeah, that thing" and had to mentally slap myself to go back and take it in properly. There was exquisite metal work and seeing the pharonic collars brought back making costumes in junior school out of cardboard. Nice to see the real thing.
After the museum we went to Islamic Cairo (the old quarter) where we wandered with our guide, Wael, taking in the medieval streets...
... and slower pace of life
We had a fortunate opportunity to visit an old shopping centre which allowed women to shop without having to be completely covered, so they could see what they were buying. There was a band practising in the building and we caught sight of our first Whirling Dervish. We had limited time to look round and with the mesmeric music playing felt like we were in some sort of ancient north African episode of Benny Hill (without the scantily clad girls of course)as we dashed up and down narrow spiral staircases.
We stopped in a courtyard cafe for a refreshing mint tea and Turkish coffee...
then went for our first Egyptian dinner where I tried Besera which is like a bean version of hummus, and koshari which you can find a recipe for here. We also had our first taste of hibiscus tea which I am sipping as I write this. It has a dry taste similar to cranberry juice and with a the addition of a little sugar tastes more like Ribena. I've developed a taste for it so will be searching for it in London when my holiday supplies run out.
We walked back to our hotel watching the buildings change from Islamic Cairo to modern Cairo and flopped into bed, tired but exhilarated after a brilliant first day.
There's been a bit of internet silence from me from the last few weeks as I've been on holiday in Egypt. The never ending Royal Wedding build up plus the winning combination of Bank holidays triggered a last minute get away and we booked a tour to Cairo and then from Luxor to Aswan, sailing down the Nile. It's been a fantastic trip and I'm feeling a little lost back in London without the hubbub, the sand, the soaring temperatures and great food.
I'm sorting through my photos which I'll post to flickr and I'll try and write a little about my trip here. I encountered some interesting textiles on our journey so I'll share those with you here.
Right, I'm going to brew a pot of Hibiscus tea, my favourite new beverage while I sort through my pictures in between loads of washing.